Rosita Zanchi, a Bergamo seamstress at the Tour de France

27.06.2023
6 min
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BERGAMO – Among those who are preparing to reach the Tour de France, there is also Rosita Zanchi, a seamstress by professionBlonde. Friendly. Direct. Since last year, the Santini knitwear factory has been yellow jersey sponsor and among the most delicate tasks is that of doing last-minute adjustments on the jersey holders, when they have to wear the time trial bodysuitsIt's a paradox. Teams spend a lot of time testing and wind tunnel work, and then when their champions compete in the most important race in the world, a time trial, they have to use a different suit than the one they worked on. It is therefore easy to understand how delicate the work of Santini in putting them in the best possible conditions.

«The yellow jersey – says Rosita, who has been with Santini for 36 years – has changed things, they had already accelerated when we took the Trek-SegafredoWe used to make Giro jerseys, but those were different times and there wasn't all this attention. Aerodynamics used to be limited to the bike, now it involves every detail. So with the team we started to do custom work, which were not done so often before."

Rosita Zanchi has been working at Santini for 36 years and is now the most experienced seamstress (photo Santini)
Rosita Zanchi has been working at Santini for 36 years and is now the most experienced seamstress (photo Santini)
What can you tell us about your trip to the 2022 Tour?

It was a beautiful experience, even just seeing what was outside, the people, the environment. It was the first time I saw him live.. Instead, as far as work is concerned, we did our best to satisfy every rider. We found the machines right there, in a seamstress's workshop…

How did you find it?

Through our contact person in France. Thanks to him we found these machines similar to oursWe worked at night, because We went to her place after the race, between 20 and 21 pm, and she was very kind. But at a certain point something happened…

What?

It happened that the next day the riders had a hotel far away and we didn't have time to do the fitting and then come back to sew. So we left her a note apologizing, and at 3am we left the lab with the machines in hand.Some people may have thought we were stealing them, but the next day we gave them back.

Vingegaard, Rosita explains, has a 3-centimeter wrist: as thin as a child's (photo Santini)
Vingegaard, Rosita explains, has a 3-centimeter wrist: as thin as a child's (photo Santini)
Didn't you bring yours?

It was the first year, we had to take measures: now we are equipped. And so, to avoid criticism, perhaps on the fact that there might be a crease on the body, this year we are bringing our cars.

Do you need special machines for the very thin fabrics you work with?

You need an overlocker. It's hard to find an industrial machine that's also portable., so I asked my supplier and he got us a professional machine similar to ours, which fits in a well-protected trolley and in the end is quite similar to those of the seamstress.

What do you do when you arrive at the hotel where the leader of the classification is staying?

There are three of us. Monica Santini, our boss. Raffaella, the pattern maker. And I, the seamstress. We carry leotards in all sizes. The riders are very thin because they wear XS, except Van Aert who is an AdonisWe let them try it, we ask how they like it. Vingegaard's cuff will be 3 centimeters - I think my three-year-old niece has the same one.. In fact, I was sewing and wondering how they fit inside. It takes two people to put it up, because they are really brush strokes. The body is a second skin.

You go to the Tour with a sewing machine, but also with an old tape measure: the work is 100 percent artisanal (photo Santini)
You go to the Tour with a sewing machine, but also with an old tape measure: the work is 100 percent artisanal (photo Santini)
Are they trying on the body on the rollers?

Usually, in the room where we take the measurements, we find the bike already assembled. We move from hotel to hotel. We arrived at Pogacar's while they were downstairs having breakfast. It was 8:00. We placed the machines on the tables of the restaurant, not far from where the riders were eating. They brought the rollers and the bikes. Pogacar went to the bathroom, put on his bodysuit, He came there, we took the necessary measurements, then he came back for breakfast. And while he finished eating, we made the arrangements. I think you can also see the scene in the Netflix series about the Tour

Is there much need to intervene?

Not too much. Maybe on Van Aert, because he's one size bigger than the others. He's tall, has thicker wrists and legs. If I remember correctly, he wears a size L, but consider that Our sizes are very slim, so even the L is very tightThere should be no creases, the bodysuit should truly feel like a second skin.

How much manual skill is required to perform certain interventions?

It's natural for me now because I've been doing it for thirty years. But if they had sent me to the first year, If we sent a young girl now, she would have trouble even adjusting the carAll machines sew, you have to know how to adjust them. And you also need the right wires, in fact I bring my ownLycra has elasticity, and the thread must follow it. You also need very thin needles and the ability to make close, almost continuous stitches.

Van Aert wears a size L bodysuit, which is still incredibly tight: it takes three people to fit it. Rosita is in front (photo by Santini)
Van Aert wears a size L bodysuit, which is still incredibly tight: it takes three people to fit it. Rosita is in front (photo by Santini)
Are these quick jobs?

Five minutes were enough for Pogacar. And since Trek-Segafredo was also in the hotel, we satisfied Mollema who wanted an adjustment on his waist and legs. It doesn't seem like it, but I'm a body so tight that you notice the difference when riders lose weight while running.

Over the course of 36 years, you've probably met a lot of champions who wore Santini: who has made an impression on you?

One I also knew personally, it was PantaniHe came to the company to pick up the kit for an event he was having in Milan. He was there, he made the rounds of the company, he shook hands with everyone, a very down-to-earth, humble person. You could see he was a good person. Mr. Santini was there to explain things to him, and we were there to prepare what he needed to eat. That's how it works here. Sometimes you work really hard.

Monica Santini and Rosita Zanchi work to eliminate any possible creases: the laws of aerodynamics are all-encompassing (photo by Santini)
Monica Santini and Rosita Zanchi work to eliminate any possible creases: the laws of aerodynamics are all-encompassing (photo by Santini)
Why are you a seamstress?

My mother was a seamstress too, but doing it on an industrial level is another thingI started by sewing labels and then I worked my way through all the departments. Now I'm sort of the point of reference for the younger ones. I didn't know what cycling was, but I've been involved in it all my life.

Did the French seamstress say anything when you returned the machines to her?

No nothing. I put her wires back on and we never heard from her again.. Evidently everything went well with her too.