Upper Marche: from fortress to fortress between Catria, Nerone and Petrano

04.07.2023
6 min
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Here we are on the second day of the CAAM, the Ciclo Appenninica Alte Marche which in 200 kilometers unites nine municipalities in a circular routeThis time we find ourselves under the aegis of theMountain Union of Catria and Nero. For the second part of the trip (the first (It was published on Sunday 2 July) we are accompanied only by “Zico” Pieri, without his wife Emanuela.

Let's start with Cantiano, a village that arose in the Middle Ages along the ancient Via Flaminia and known for its tasty sour cherries…

“Zico, but of the three mountains in the area (Catria, Nerone, and Petrano), which is your favorite?” we ask.

«For me the Petrano – he replies with a smile – a little further ahead there is a crossroads from which a dirt road starts that leads to the topThe surface is good, so much so that I can do it on a road bike, and then go down on asphalt on the other side."

In Cantiano you can't help but try the sour cherry jam

Sassoferrato and the climb

However, we have breakfast at “legendary” K2 bar, a real meeting point for cyclists in the area, because it is located exactly at the crossroads where the climb to Catria begins. However, we continue along the cycle path and, after the Valdorbia pass (660 meters) to reach the next town, Sassoferrato, we also make a short trip into UmbriaRight here, just before Isola Fossara, we cross the narrow Corno Gorge with the road descending halfway up the hillWe are so high up that, thanks also to the lush vegetation, we cannot see the river flowing below.

Once past the Roman archaeological park of Sentinum, In Sassoferrato we take the time to take some photos in Piazza Matteotti in front of the portico of Palazzo Oliva and in the nearby fourteenth-century fortress commissioned by Cardinal Albornoz. Then we continue towards the easternmost edge of the CAAM: Genga, not far from the famous Frasassi Caves and from here we go back up towards Arcevia.

There is very little plain, just consider that in 200 kilometers, the entire ring puts together an altitude difference worthy of an Alpine stage, with a total of 3.570 meters, without ever exceeding 1.000 meters of altitude (and not to mention that, for those who want, there are various access routes to climb Mounts Catria, Nerone and Petrano and pack even more climbing into your legs).

Surrounded by peaks

Arcevia is a balcony overlooking the Marche where the view stretches all the way to the sea. Unlike the villages we've visited previously, it's also less isolated than the other towns, with more bustle and tourists. We continue pedaling in the wake of "Zico," returning east and passing the Cabernardi Archaeological Mining Park, where sulphur was extracted, to reach, after continuous ups and downs, Serra Sant'Abbondio. The heart of this area is the nearby Camaldolese Monastery of Fonte Avellana, still considered today a very active spiritual and cultural center.

After a short descent, the last real climb of this Ciclo Appenninica Alte Marche takes us to Frontone. Going up to Castello della Porta, from the balcony of the ancient village which was already a stronghold of the Duchy of Montefeltro and even before that of the Romans, we can see the three peaks of Catria, Nerone and Petrano which we have gone around in these two daysIn the distance, however, lies San Marino, which allows one to imagine the Adriatic Sea behind the sun-drenched hills.

Return to Furlo

The descent to Cagli closes our loop and then return to the Furlo Gorges where it all began. The CAAM, as mentioned, is a very tough route if tackled all at once, for this reason The guide proposed by the Mountain Union offers a division into nine short segments (from 8 to 33 kilometers in length) that can be composed as desired, each with an indication of the distances and partial differences in altitude.

And for sleeping and eating? We refer to the site visitaltemarche.it where, in addition to a detailed description of the places crossed, there are also the references of the various local bodies responsible for receptionWith just a few clicks you could discover the "four seasons of taste", craft beers, grilled crescie and all the food and wine of this corner of the Marche which, if it hasn't happened yet, might just make you want to set off on your next cycling holiday...

Apennine Cycle Upper Marche