BILBAO – "In the city, people are talking about nothing else. Even at home," he said. Mikel Landa referring to the Tour de France in the Basque Country. The excitement is there. It's palpable. We had seen and experienced something similar last year in Budapest at the start of the Tour of Italy. On that occasion, there were reports of more than a million people lining the streets leaving the Hungarian capital to cheer on the Giro d'Italia.
Here, despite the fact that Bilbao is smaller than Budapest (350.000 inhabitants versus 1,7 million), we are at the same crowd intensity. It is estimated that there were one million people along the first stage. And many French people also crossed the border to San Sebastian, especially from nearby Toulouse.
Bilbao is trembling
The Basques have invested several million euros, but they know there will be a return. And these are awarenesses of ordinary people.
For example, we went into a pharmacy to buy eye drops. Seeing us with our passes around our necks, the pharmacist told us how happy people were with the Tour and how they had somehow cooperated (an interesting fact: only 40 cars were removed during the roadworks and the various roadblocks).
«A big movement these days. I was amazed by the people who were at the team presentations. And you'll see what happens with Landa and Bilbao when the race starts," said the pharmacist.
Cycling DNA
Basque and Tour de France flags flew together on almost every lamppost in the city, not just in the center. Bilbao showed off its best pieces. BEC, the Bilbao Exhibition Center, for the press room and the headquarters. The Guggenheim Museum for the team presentation. The Paseo del'Arenal for the “Fan Park”, that is, the Expo area. The stadium San Mames for departure.
Cycling is a big thing here. There are many races and countless riders. All this in a climate that's certainly not conducive to cycling. And the topography isn't far behind. So, those who choose to ride are highly motivated.
There were a lot of people at the team presentations, but what struck us wasn't so much the numbers, but the passion and expertise of the fans. Along the 1.350 meters that led from the bus area to the stage, a path that has been renamed "the path of the stars", People knew the names of at least 80 percent of the athletes. And if they were Spanish... hell broke loose. And even more so if they were Basque. Pello Bilabo, Landa and Fraile the most acclaimed.
Party till the end
It was strange how the rain didn't send many people home during the team presentation. And the reason is easy to explain: they live with the rain here. An umbrella is always handy, or else there are ponchos, which they even handed out with polka dots, like the jersey of the best climber in the Grande Boucle.
The last teams to take the stage were clearly the Jumbo Visma di vingegaard (and Van Aert) and the UAE Emirates di pogacarThe interviews in the mixed zone were endless for them. There were a lot of fans behind us. When Tadej passed, they created an incredible cacophony.
But the party was effectively over. The microphones on stage had also been turned off. Vingegaard had also left, but the fans were still there. They weren't moving. because 175 of the 176 starters had passed. One was missing, held back by the press more than the others, Wout Van Aert. And for him too, chants, applause and even best wishes for his unborn child.
“Aupa” Tour!
The shops are no exception. Many windows are decorated in yellow, just as in Italy they turn pink during the Giro d'Italia.
Volumes have increased, especially for restaurants, bars and hotels. Spiuk, in its store in the center, has practically emptied the warehouse! “The commemorative shirt sold out like hotcakes and the 30 percent discounts did the rest,” they told us. Miriam Galdames e Julen Martinez Gomez.
Another thing we noticed was the great coming and going of cycling groups, many of them American. Tour operators follow the race and offer tours to discover the route and the places the Tour visits. For all these cyclists there was an “Aupa”, a sort of greeting of encouragement. And Aupa Tour officially opened the 2023 Grande Boucle.
The ball somehow passes to Florence and Italy. The Grand Depart 2024 it's up to usWe know that hard work is already underway. It will be a great celebration too. “Gino Bartali's house”, as the Tour director said, Christian Prudhomme.
